百珍香餅行: 一塊餅,一段傳承
一提到台中海線的清水,你們會想到什麼呢?是被許多遊客喻為全台最美的休憩站——清水服務區?還是不論平日、假日都香火鼎盛的紫雲巖?抑或是那想到就讓人垂涎三尺的米糕?
What comes to mind when you think of Qingshui, a coastal district in Taichung?
Is it the Qingshui Service Area, often praised by visitors as the most beautiful rest stop in Taiwan?
Or the Ziyun Temple, which draws large crowds and burning incense whether it’s a weekday or the weekend?
Or perhaps it’s the mouthwatering Qingshui rice cake that makes your mouth water just thinking about it?
不過今天,我們沒有要介紹米糕,而是要帶你走進一間傳承五代、擁有超過八十年歷史的傳統餅店—百珍香餅行。這家餅舖就位於紫雲巖旁,沿著清水大街走入,轉角處便能看到那醒目的紅底白字招牌,底下寫著「1943年創立」。推開木製玻璃門,一股淡淡的餅香撲鼻而來,映入眼簾的是一排排整齊擺放的大餅:香菇滷肉、芝麻冬瓜、麻糬紅豆、鳳梨餅、老婆餅……從古早味到創新口味,不論年齡層,都能在這裡找到屬於自己的那一塊餅。
But today, we’re not here to talk about rice cakes. Instead, we’re taking you into a traditional pastry shop that has been passed down through five generations and boasts over 80 years of history — Baizhenxiang Pastry Shop.
Located right next to Ziyun Temple, just a short walk along Qingshui Old Street, you’ll spot its eye-catching red sign with bold white lettering at the corner. Below it reads, “Established in 1943.”
Push open the wooden-framed glass door, and a gentle aroma of freshly baked pastries greets you. Inside, neatly arranged rows of traditional Taiwanese pastries come into view — braised mushroom with pork, sesame winter melon, mochi red bean, pineapple cakes, sweetheart cakes...
From nostalgic flavors to creative new twists, there’s a pastry here for everyone, no matter your age.
其實,「百珍香」這個名字並不是一開始就有的。店名的演變,記錄著時代的流轉,也藏著創辦人走過的艱辛歷程。第三代傳承者吳富連老闆熱情地向我們分享家族故事。他翻出一本由祖母吳廖偷(清水阿嬤)口述的書籍,細細講述這段從清朝光緒四年(1878年)就開始的餅藝傳承。阿嬤原是虎尾「四香珍」的創辦人之一,與丈夫拿著身上僅有的五百元,合股開餅店,技藝則是來自她的阿公吳虎,一代一代口傳心授,薪火不斷。
In fact, the name "Baizhenxiang" wasn’t there from the very beginning.
The evolution of the shop’s name reflects the passing of time and holds within it the hardships endured by its founder.
Mr. Wu Fu-Lian, the third-generation owner, warmly shared the story of his family’s legacy with us.
He brought out a handwritten manuscript narrated by his grandmother, Wu Liao-Tou — affectionately known as “Grandma of Qingshui” — detailing the family’s pastry-making tradition that began in 1878, during the 4th year of Emperor Guangxu's reign in the Qing Dynasty.
Grandma was one of the original founders of the “Sixiangzhen” pastry shop in Huwei. With only 500 dollars in hand, she and her husband started the business together. The craft itself was passed down from her grandfather, Wu Hu — a legacy of skills handed down generation after generation, heart to heart, flame never extinguished
當時餅店還沒有正式的店面,早期採接單制,不是在自家做餅,就是受邀到別人家中製作,憑藉的就是「用料實在、口感佳」。而「四香珍」中的「珍」「香」二字,也正是當時常見的命名方式。不久後因合夥分歧,吳廖偷回到清水紫雲巖旁,獨自開設「錦香珍」餅店,最終才轉為今日熟悉的「百珍香」。據說當時她虔誠求籤問觀音媽:「做餅好嗎?」籤文給出正面回應,也讓她更加堅定走上製餅這條路。
Back then, the pastry business didn’t even have a proper storefront.
In the early days, orders were made on a pre-order basis — pastries were either made at home or prepared at customers’ houses by invitation. What kept the business going was a reputation built on quality ingredients and excellent taste.
The name “Sixiangzhen” (四香珍) followed the common naming convention of that era, using auspicious characters like “Zhen” (meaning precious) and “Xiang” (meaning fragrant).
Not long after, due to differences among partners, Wu Liao-Tou returned to Qingshui near Ziyun Temple and opened her own pastry shop called “Jinxiangzhen” (錦香珍). Eventually, the shop evolved into the well-known name we recognize today — “Baizhenxiang” (百珍香).
It is said that she once sincerely prayed to Guanyin (the Goddess of Mercy), asking through a divination stick, “Is it a good idea to make pastries?”
The response she received was a positive one — a sign that strengthened her resolve to pursue the path of pastry-making.
歷經清朝、日治時期直到現代,餅店的樣貌或許改變了,但百珍香對品質的堅持從未改變。像是深受歡迎的老婆餅,內餡選用天然芋頭製成,老闆特別強調:「我們沒有加芋頭精、芋頭粉,都是天然芋頭磨泥,吃起來不會太甜,香氣很自然。就是單純的芋頭」
Though the appearance of the pastry shop has changed over time — from the Qing Dynasty, through the Japanese colonial period, to the present day — Baizhenxiang’s commitment to quality has never wavered.
Take their popular sweetheart cake, for example. The filling is made from natural taro, and the owner proudly emphasizes:
“We don’t add any artificial taro flavoring or taro powder — it’s all made from real taro that's been ground into a smooth paste. The taste isn’t overly sweet, and the aroma is naturally fragrant.”just only taro.
除了老婆餅,百珍香也不斷研發新口味來吸引年輕族群,如切達起司餅、奶油酥餅等。老闆說道:「現在很少年輕的師父會做傳統大餅,不過我們還是有在持續做下去。」
In addition to their signature sweetheart cakes, Baizhenxiang continues to develop new flavors to appeal to younger generations — such as cheddar cheese pastries and buttery crisps.
The owner remarked:
“These days, it’s rare to find young pastry chefs who know how to make traditional large pastries, but we’re still keeping the tradition alive.”
對許多在地長輩而言,傳統大餅不只是點心,更是一種從小吃到大的記憶。百珍香也因應時代潮流,部分產品改為使用奶油製作酥餅,但像古早太陽餅這類經典品項,仍保留豬油製法,保有酥香酥脆的傳統風味,是許多老饕心中無可取代的滋味。
For many local elders, traditional large pastries are more than just snacks — they’re cherished childhood memories.
To keep up with changing times, Baizhenxiang has adjusted some of its products by using butter to make certain crisp pastries.
However, for classic items like the traditional sun cake, they’ve preserved the original lard-based recipe. This ensures the flaky, rich texture and flavor that many longtime fans consider truly irreplaceable.
我們留意到店內還有杏仁片、蛋黃酥、桂圓蛋糕等手作糕點,但這些都是限量供應。老闆解釋:「這些餅不能久放,有空的時候才會做,放太久就不好吃了。」
We also noticed handmade pastries like almond flakes, salted egg yolk pastries, and longan cakes inside the shop, but these are available only in limited quantities.
The owner explained:
“These pastries can’t be stored for long, so we only make them when we have time. If kept too long, they won’t taste good.”
一旁剛出爐的吐司還在冷卻中,老闆拍拍麵包笑著說:「這是每天都會做的,很Q、很紮實,也不會亂添加什麼。」
訪談過程中,吳老闆三句不離一個信念:「只要用的是真材實料,那就夠了!」
然而,傳統的維持並不容易——
「現在師父不好請,有的人要週休二日,可是六日是我們最忙的時候啊。」
「有些年輕人覺得學了也不一定能開店,怕沒人買。」
Next to us, freshly baked loaves of bread were cooling down. The owner patted the bread and smiled, saying:
“This is something we bake every day. It’s chewy, firm, and we don’t add any unnecessary ingredients.”
Throughout the interview, Mr. Wu repeatedly emphasized one core belief:
"As long as we use genuine, quality ingredients, that’s all that matters!"
However, maintaining tradition is not easy—
“It’s hard to find skilled pastry chefs nowadays. Some want weekends off, but weekends are when we’re the busiest.”
“Some young people feel that even if they learn the craft, they might not be able to open a shop, fearing there won’t be enough customers.”
事實上,這樣的困境反映出台灣在傳統技藝傳承上面臨的嚴峻挑戰。即使有年輕人選擇就讀食品相關科系,課程內容大多以西式麵包與甜點為主,真正涵蓋中式傳統餅藝的教學卻非常有限。而製餅這項工作,不僅需要長時間站立、凌晨開始備料,還得搬運沉重的麵粉,再加上難以提供週休二日的工時安排,對現代年輕人而言無疑是一種高壓又高勞力的選擇。
In fact, this predicament highlights the serious challenges Taiwan faces in preserving traditional crafts.
Even though some young people choose to study food-related fields, most courses focus on Western-style bread and pastries, with very limited instruction on traditional Chinese pastry-making.
Moreover, pastry-making is a demanding job — requiring long hours of standing, starting preparations in the early morning, and handling heavy sacks of flour.
On top of that, the difficulty of offering weekends off makes it a high-pressure, labor-intensive career choice that is hard for many modern young people to embrace.
這也反映出台灣在培育傳統技術人才上,長期以來的忽視與缺口。技藝的傳承,不只是靠情懷,更需要制度的支持與環境的配合,否則再珍貴的文化記憶,也有可能在時代洪流中慢慢流失。
當被問起與師父之間的磨合,吳老闆也笑說:「當然會有意見不合的時候,但重點不是誰對誰錯,而是看哪個方法做得更好,讓它流傳下去。」
This situation also reflects the long-standing neglect and gaps in Taiwan’s efforts to cultivate talent in traditional crafts.
Passing down these skills relies not only on passion but also requires institutional support and a supportive environment.
Otherwise, no matter how precious the cultural heritage is, it may gradually fade away amid the tides of time.
When asked about working together with the master pastry chefs, Mr. Wu also smiled and said:
"Of course, there are times when we disagree, but the key isn’t about who’s right or wrong — it’s about which method works better to keep the tradition alive."
在百珍香的時間軸上,我們看到的不只是產品的變遷,更是人與人之間的情感累積。早期裝餅是用大竹籃,客人吃完還得將籃子送回;後來改成木箱,再演變為現今的精美紙盒包裝。雖然便利了,但也漸漸少了那份與顧客之間的溫度與互動。
老闆說,最讓他感動的時刻,是看到老顧客帶著孩子、甚至孫子來買餅,那份熟悉與信任像一條不斷延伸的線,把幾代人都牽在了一起。
Along Baizhenxiang’s timeline, what we see is not just the evolution of their products but also the accumulation of human connections.
In the early days, pastries were packed in large bamboo baskets that customers had to return after finishing. Later, wooden boxes replaced the baskets, and eventually, the shop transitioned to today’s elegant paper packaging.
While this brought convenience, it also gradually diminished the warmth and interaction once shared between the shop and its customers.
The owner said the most touching moments for him are when longtime customers bring their children—or even grandchildren—to buy pastries.
That sense of familiarity and trust is like a continuous thread, connecting generations together.
到了採訪的尾聲,他淡淡地說:「我不太會說啦,做餅比較厲害。」
At the end of the interview, he said modestly,
“I’m not very good with words; I’m better at making pastries.”
我們笑著點頭。身為Z世代的我們,很慶幸能透過這次採訪認識這段令人動容的傳統與故事。讓小小的清水,透過一塊餅、一段故事,慢慢被更多人看見、記得、傳下去。
We smiled and nodded.
As members of Generation Z, we feel fortunate to have had this interview to learn about such a moving tradition and story.
Through a simple pastry and a heartfelt tale, the small town of Qingshui can slowly be seen, remembered, and passed down by more people.
受訪者: 吳富連老闆
訪問小組: 劉畇秝、蘇唯中、廖睿恩、王鈴雅